Cambodia

Angkor Angelina

 

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Ta-Da. Here it is.

The temple I’ve been talking about, and hope haven’t made anti-climactic, because for me, it was definitely one of the most memorable.

First, I’ll start with a little unpopular culture, before steering you back into the shiny, Angelina Jolie, pop cultural spotlight.

So this temple, named Ta Prohm, was built by the second Khmer king, who was big on Buddha over Hinduism. As part of his reign, he embarked on a huge public works campaign to build temple sculptures and any other kind of building that could show how amazing he was.

Ta Prohm was built in this more Buddhist style, and the main image – a goddess of wisdom, was done in his mother’s likeness.

Upon first glance at the temple’s disrepair, you might think he didn’t like his Mum very much:

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And it’s true – the place is falling apart. But way back in the 1200s, it was tikateeboo and right now, there are efforts being made to restore the place to what it once was. Have a look at this before and after:

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I thought it was pretty impressive. However, after the Khmer empire fell in the 1400s, the temple was left to the jungle – which is why, on walking through it, trees have begun to form around it, sometimes looking like animals (an octopus):

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Or, in this case a skeleton:

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Interestingly, the overgrowth, disrepair and negligence was intentional. A team of French explorers “found” it again, in the late 1890s, and after hemming and hawing about it, decided that it would remain as it looks, with a tree in the living room, and the ceiling caving in, all for art’s sake, or to quote the French group: “as a concession to the general taste of the picturesque”.

While that sounds as lovely as a phyllo pastry tastes, I can’t help but think they had a look at what it would take to fix ($$$$) the temple and retrofitted the “elegantly wasted philosophy”, or en Francais to make it sound much better – l’elegance de l’atrophie.

Regardless of the reason, it stands as it stands, and was hands down my favourite temple visit so far. This, I think was partly that our Team Canada toured the grounds at the end of the day – when there were maybe four other people. We basically had the place to ourselves, and with the sun going down while looking up at the jungle crowding around it, with trees and loud bird calls, it had a very eerie and mystical feeling as we wandered through:

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Now, it can’t be avoided. A lot of this has to do with you know who:

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Angelina Jolie filmed Tomb Raider here, and also in other parts of Cambodia, including Bayon temple in Angkor Thom. And walking through the place, it’s hard to separate out the film where she finds a magical piece of some sort to save the world, all with a look of foreboding:

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Our guide said that the film has quite a big impact on tours and that as a result, the temple is one of the most popular.

Truthfully, I don’t remember the film that well – except that it wasn’t that great. So, for the course of my tour through Ta Prohm, I went with my old standby for touring mysterious temples, who I think is well established by this point:

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Whether Angelina or Indy, our Team Canada wandered through the crumbling place, imagining ourselves explorers, looking for some lost gem to save the world or to keep it out of the hands of the Nazis. Okay, maybe it was just me doing that, though with Rose’s shorts and trekking boots, she definitely looked the part:

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After a last look at the place:

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our Team Canada headed home and the next day, we officially disbanded. Matt, flew back to Toronto. Juliana followed next,  heading back to Regina.

Reduced to two, Rose and I honestly didn’t know what to do with ourselves. After a solid, itemized itinerary for the past two weeks, we realized that we had to start making decisions again, and the holiday from a holiday was over.

I know. It’s a sad tale – I can feel your concern.

So, after a day of tossing ideas back and forth we decided to head South from Siem Reap to an island off the Cambodian Coast called Koh Rong. But first, we’d pass through Phnom Penh, and a trip to the dark side.

Talk soon

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Angkor Affleck

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Angkor Wat is like Ben Affleck. It gets top billing – it’s showcased on the Cambodian national flag, gets all the buzz – it’s the temple most people talk about – and it gets most of the attention – when people arrive here, it’s usually the one they want to visit.

In contrast, Bayon temple, part of Angkor Thom is more like Ben Affleck’s brother Casey. It’s a younger temple, built by the King after Angkor Wat who was into Buddhism, it’s more quirky- from massive Buddhist faces etched into rocks throughout:

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To fully realized wall sculptures:

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And, personally, after walking through it, I found it more varied and interesting, even though it’s not on the national flag: (I’m sorry Ben. I’ll still see you in Batman. But, I just didn’t think Argo was as good as most people thought it was. Admittedly, that’s not entirely your fault. But Daredevil? Your character was blind in that movie. I think a lot of moviegoers who went also probably wished they were.)

Angkor Thom is the name of the city enclosure that the second King built around a series of temples, Bayon being the main one, along with a few smaller ones, and other symbolic sculptures.

The entrance is dramatic. Two long rows of soldiers flank either side of the bridge, both holding a massive cobra, whose head comes up to meet you at the end. We were told that the left side of soldiers were in fact, Gods:

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who were counterbalanced on the left side by Demons:

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Rose took a photo on each side, so no one got the wrong idea.

In the entrance way, we came upon our first example of a four headed Buddha – designed so that each one was looking in a single cardinal direction, keeping an eye on things:

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On the Bayon temple grounds, there’s a huge, sculpted wall detailing daily life in the 1200s:

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Including more crocodiles:

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Interestingly, although this second King had decided to lean towards Buddha, he still included sculptures and representations of Khmer culture, like the Apsara dancers, ubiquitous throughout:

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But, for me, the big fixation were the massive Buddhist heads. I’d shoot one side:

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then see more on the other, and kept going:

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We even climbed up to a level, which put us face to face:

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I wasn’t the only affected by the younger Affleck temple. Matt, normally a stalwart against sidewalk scams, hustles and touts, upon entering a darkened corridor in one area of the temple, was offered an incense stick to stick into a shrine, along with an orange wrist tie, which he was told: “GOOD LUCK. VERY, GOOD LUCK.” – went ahead with it, and even bought me one (of which I’m still wearing, by the way. Thanks Matty).

In my last post, about Angkor Wat – for once, I didn’t talk about the heat. It may have been, because we saw that one at the tail end of the day, and I was getting used to living in wet clothes. But, this time around, it was back. Full force, front and centre, and up and down.

Here’s my imitation of a chicken breast at a buffet, under a heat lamp:

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I find, under these intensely hot conditions, I get painfully self conscious, thinking – ugh, my shirt’s wet, it’s gross, and then I have these reactions, in this order: why didn’t I bring a back up shirt? Then two seconds later: wait it’ll just end up as soaked as the one I’m wearing. Ugh, maybe they have a tourist shirt nearby I can buy just to get me through this? Then, in the same manner as last time, in two seconds, realize that unless the shirt is waterproof, it’s gonna turn out the same as if I had brought a back up shirt.

From here, my main thoughts are: I want to leave, burn my clothes, bury them and start over. I think I’ve seen enough Buddhist faces now.

Invariably, it’s at this breaking point in my mind when I see someone, as equally soaked, and I burst out of my self-involved bubble, finding partnership with my drenched brethren.

In this case, it was a guy whose shirt, honestly looked like he’d jump in water, and was dripping after a swim. But, what struck me most about it, the guy seemed to be maintaining his composure. Unlike me, he wasn’t self-consciously pulling his shirt off his wet skin, wiping his forehead, or making any attempt to try to camouflage his deluge.

He didn’t give a shit. And, I thought: “Good for him. Maybe someday. But right now, I just felt a drip start from my shoulder blades, make its way down my back, and finally, unceremoniously, drop down the back of my pants. I think I’ve seen enough for today.”

I think, most of our Team Canada were also feeling the effects of heat, and wanted relief. The good news was that we had an antidote: air conditioning in the mini-van we toured around in. Interestingly, we met other tourists later who had done temple tours on foot, and admitted they didn’t explore the temples as fully, because they wanted to get out of the heat.

While the air conditioning wasn’t exactly the fiery pit where I had hoped to toss in my shirt, it was at least a stopgap until I could hang my sweat-soaked, soon to be fetid shirt outside our door at the hotel as insect repellent.

We made our way out, looked behind for last look and caught this guy making the rounds:

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Finally, after settling in, this brought an end to our day. And, I realize now that you may be disappointed that I’m talking about two celebrity actors, when I’ve been teasing about Lady Lara Croft for the past two, maybe three posts? It’s like a TV show that leaves you at a cliffhanger, so they can jam in an ad, while you’re left pacing.

I’m sorry. I’ve said before, I hate it when people do that, and lookee-see what I done did.

She’s next. I promise.

Talk soon

 

 

Floating down river

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We’re in a Cambodian river in dry season. This means the water below us is only three feet deep.

Our guide points out where the river overflows in the rainy season. To our right, about 20 feet higher than we are, there’s a straight line of plastic bags, stuck in one tree after the other.

“That’s the flood line”, he tells us. In about two months, after a heavy rain, the water gets this high, and the plastic bags are left behind, becoming markers of what’s to come.

Right now we’re moving slowly downstream, almost touching the bottom as we pass fishermen and their boats along the way – our target, a special village about 20 minutes ahead.

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And, while I can’t help thinking about the movie Apocalypse Now as we’re moving along, here’s where things are wildly different.

Our captain is maybe 13 years old, though I think looks about ten:

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True, there is the occasional curious glance from someone on the riverbank, but most people could care less, focused more on what’s going into their fishing nets:

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This route is also a tourist highway. A slow highway mind you (we’re clocking no more than 5 knots), but other boats like us are ahead and behind.

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Unlike Captain Willard’s boat trip in Apocalypse Now, there are no eerie turns and unknown curves ahead. Everything is well mapped and predictable. It sort of had to be, because it was also on a reality show.

A few years back, this was the setting for The Amazing Race. The target at the end of the river wasn’t an overweight Marlon Brando, but a yellow card. Our guide, Kim-san, was on the show, helping out and working with the contestants – and while I can’t remember what the specific tasks were that the contestants had to do – here’s where it took place:

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A floating village, somewhat like the one we saw in Halong Bay, Vietnam, but at one of the floating, souvenir spots, instead of pearls on hand they’ve got a different kind of farm:

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Maybe, not as elegant as a pearl necklace, a ton of tiny crocodiles were for sale, plus a little girl was modelling her own accessory:

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After this photo, I thought I’d been had. See her holding up one finger? She’s telling me: “1$” again and again. At first I thought she meant for the cost of my photograph. But she was charging to hold the snake. By the time this was clear, I looked over to Rose to show her, but she’d already spotted it and was on the other side of the room with the same look on her face that she had eating Balot.

The village also includes a school, which we drifted past as kids looked like they were changing classes, from one door to the next, all within a few feet.

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I thought, for bored kids, going to school here might not be so bad. With so many tourists passing by, you’ve at least got something to look at “out the window”, maybe even making up games in your head of what country you think a tourist is from based on their looks, clothes and type of camera. Although once this gets boring, I’m not sure what you do – dream of dry land?

The thought of living here is obviously tough- which is, of course, why it’s such a tourist attraction:

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Rose made the suggestion of a floating hotel, or a homestay where people could stay with a family and see the day to day workings of a village, built on styrofoam. While, I’m sure some people would be game – having seen how villagers take in the water and what they put back into it, I was fine to float by it in a single day.

Besides, our trip up the river was only a diversion – we had more temples to see on shore. Our Team Canada, headed back, dodged hawkers and touts on the shore, including personalized plates with our faces on them (someone was taking photographs of every person passing through a gate).

Ultimately, the salesman was asking us if we wanted to eat food off our own faces. I’m not sure if this was an appeal to narcissism or self-loathing. I had both enough in check, that I decided not to go down that road and bid the salesman good luck with other tourists who wanted to see themselves in their food.

After this, we all headed back to our hotel, and got ready for the next excursion – one that, actually had eerie elements. But, rather than from deranged rantings of Dennis Hopper at a temple, our temple was popularly known as a tomb. And, the celebrity behind it, was clean shaven, and looked a lot better in shorts:

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Talk soon